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Las Vegas Ceiling Fan Installation is exactly what the name says. We install, repair, and replace ceiling fans, and that is all we do. From a simple swap in a Summerlin bedroom, to a new fan hung on a two-story Henderson great room, to a wobble that keeps you up at night, we handle the whole job and leave the fan running quiet and safe. No upselling you a panel or a rewire you do not need, just fans done right.
In the valley, a ceiling fan earns its keep. A fan does not actually cool a room, but moving air makes you feel several degrees cooler, so you can nudge the thermostat up through a cooling season that runs five or six months here and take some of the sting out of the power bill. We size the fan to the room, mount it on a proper fan-rated box, and balance it so it moves real air without the hum or the shake. Every quote is free, and the price is firm before we start.
If your fan is doing any of these, we can tell you why, and fix it.
Almost always a loose blade screw, a warped or dusty blade, a bent downrod, or a fan hung on a box that was never rated for one. We rebalance it, or remount it right if the box is the problem.
Worn motor bearings or a dying capacitor. Caught early it is a cheap part and a quick fix; ignored, it takes the motor with it.
A tripped breaker, a failed capacitor, a worn pull-chain switch, or a loose connection in the housing. We find which one instead of guessing.
Usually a bad capacitor or a worn speed switch. We carry the common ones, so most of these are fixed the same visit.
A loose connection, a failing bulb, or a dimmer that is not rated for the fan. We track down the real cause so it stops for good.
Shut the fan off at the breaker and call us. A burning smell means the motor or the wiring above it is overheating, and that is not one to wait on.
Installation, repair, replacement, and outdoor patio fans, the full range for homes across the valley.
Installation is the heart of what we do, and no two jobs are quite the same. The easy version is a swap, where a fan already hangs in the spot and the box and wiring are sound, and we can have the new one up and balanced in about an hour. The bigger job is a new location, where there was only a light before, or nothing at all. That one means running a new circuit, cutting in a braced fan-rated box that bolts to the framing, and sometimes opening a little drywall to route the wire, and we walk you through exactly what it takes before we start.
High and vaulted great rooms, the kind that fill newer homes in Summerlin, Henderson, and Southern Highlands, are their own skill. We size the downrod so the blades hang at the right height to actually move air, add a slope adapter when the ceiling is pitched, and bring the ladders or lift to reach it safely. Whatever the ceiling, we size the fan to the room, set it on a mount rated for the weight and the motion, wire the control you want, and balance it so it runs quiet.
A fan almost never fails all at once, and the fix is usually one part rather than a whole new fan. A wobble traces back to a loose blade, a warped or dusty blade set, a bent downrod, or a box that was never rated for a fan. A hum or grind is worn motor bearings or a dying capacitor. A fan stuck on one speed, or one that quit entirely, is usually that same capacitor, the pull-chain, or a wall control. We test the fan instead of guessing, tell you what actually failed, and carry the common parts so most repairs are done in a single visit.
We also handle the light kit, the remote and smart controls, and the balancing that keeps a fan from clicking or shaking once it is back together. If the fan is a good one and worth saving, we save it, and we are honest when it is not: a cheap fan with a burned-out motor is often cheaper to replace than to chase. Either way you get the number up front, and a fan that runs the way it should when we leave.
Sometimes a fan is simply at the end of the road: a burned-out motor, a builder-grade unit that was never going to last, or a fan that is too small, too loud, or too dated for the room. Replacing it is often the better value than repairing it again, and it is the chance to move to a quieter, more efficient fan that fits the space. We pull the old fan, and before the new one goes up we check that the box and support are fan-rated and that the wiring and controls can carry it.
From there we assemble and hang the new fan, set the downrod or flush mount to suit the ceiling, wire the controls, and balance it so it runs smooth and silent. We haul the old fan away and leave the room clean. If you are upgrading to a DC-motor or smart fan, we make sure the control and the wiring match what the new fan needs, so you get everything it was built to do.
A covered patio or pool deck is where a fan earns its keep in the valley heat, turning a space you would avoid in July into one you can actually use. But an indoor fan does not belong outside: the sun, the blowing dust, and the summer monsoon gusts will rust the hardware, warp the blades, and kill the motor in a season. The fix is a fan rated for the exposure, damp-rated under a solid cover, wet-rated anywhere weather or sprinklers can reach it.
We help you pick the right rating for your specific spot, then mount it on support that can take the wind, with sealed, corrosion-resistant hardware made to last outdoors here. Send us a photo of the patio and the fan you are considering and we will tell you whether it will hold up, or steer you to one that will, before anything goes up.
Every ceiling fan job is a little different, and a few things about your room and your ceiling decide how involved it is, and what it costs. Here is what actually moves the needle.
Two-story great rooms and vaulted ceilings are everywhere in Summerlin, Henderson, and the newer master-planned communities, and they change the job. The fan needs a longer downrod to bring the blades down to where they move air you can feel, a slope-compatible mount if the ceiling is pitched, and a safe way to reach it, which often means a tall ladder, scaffold, or a lift. It is more work than a standard eight-foot ceiling, but done right, a big room finally gets a fan that does something.
How the fan hangs depends on the ceiling height. On a low or standard ceiling, a flush or hugger mount keeps the blades up out of the way. On a higher ceiling, a downrod drops the fan to the sweet spot, roughly eight to nine feet off the floor, where it moves the most air. Get this wrong and a fan either feels like it is in your way or barely moves air at all; we match the mount and downrod length to your actual ceiling.
A fan that is too small for the room just stirs the air in one spot. Blade span should match the room, from a compact fan for a bedroom or office up to a large one for a great room, and the number that actually matters is airflow, measured in CFM, not how the fan looks or how many blades it has. We help you size it right, and if you are buying the fan yourself, we are happy to tell you whether the one you are eyeing will actually move air in your space.
How you want to run the fan is worth deciding before it goes up. The options run from a simple pull chain, to a wall switch, to separate fan and light controls, to a handheld remote, to a full smart fan you run from your phone or set on a schedule. Smart and remote controls are especially handy on high ceilings you cannot reach. We also wire for the motor you choose: a DC-motor fan is quieter and more efficient, but it needs a compatible control, and we make sure the wiring and switch match.
Whatever your room throws at us, we handle the whole job, the box and wiring, the mount and downrod, the controls, and the balancing, so the fan goes up safe, runs quiet, and actually moves the air it should.
The honest answer depends on the fan and what failed. Here is how we help you decide.
The fan is a decent one and only one thing has gone wrong: a bad capacitor, a worn pull-chain or wall control, tired bearings, a wobble that needs balancing, or a light kit that can be swapped. Those are quick, affordable fixes, and on a quality fan they are well worth it. Most of the repair calls we run across the valley fall right here, and you walk away with the fan you already liked, working the way it did when it was new.
The motor is burned out, the fan is a cheap builder-grade unit that keeps failing, or it is simply too small, too loud, or too dated for the room. At that point, pouring money into repairs only buys a few months, and a new fan is the better value, especially if you are ready to move up to a quieter DC-motor or a smart fan you can run from your phone. When that is the situation, we will say so plainly rather than sell you a repair that will not last.
Either way, you get both numbers and an honest recommendation before anything happens, so you are never paying for a repair that only kicks the problem down the road.
From your first call to a fan running the way it should, here is how we work.
Tell us what you are dealing with, a fan to install, one to repair, or an old one to replace, and send a few photos of the fan, the ceiling, and the wall switch if you can. That is usually enough for us to size up the job and set a visit, often the same day for repairs.
On site, we look at the things that actually decide the job: the ceiling height and whether it is vaulted, the box and wiring already in place, the controls you have, and how we can reach the spot safely. That is how we give you a real scope instead of a guess.
You get a clear, itemized price before any work begins, with the options laid out, repair, replace, or a new install, so you decide with the full picture. The number we quote is the number you pay; nothing gets added once the work is underway.
We do the work, and for most jobs that means the same visit. We carry the common fan parts, capacitors, pull-chains, switches, and mounting hardware, on the truck, so a typical repair or swap is finished before we leave rather than scheduled for a return trip.
Before we go, we balance the fan so it runs without a wobble or a click, test every speed and the light and controls, and make sure the mount is solid. We haul the old fan and the packaging away and leave the room as clean as we found it.
Focused on fans, licensed, and honest on price.
A dead fan in a Las Vegas summer is not something you want to wait a week on. We keep the common parts, capacitors, switches, pull-chains, and mounting hardware, stocked on the truck, so most repair calls across the valley are diagnosed and fixed the same day you call. When a fan quits in July, fast matters.
You see a firm, itemized price before any work starts, and you approve it first, every time. Install, repair, or replacement, the number we give you is the number you pay, with nothing added once the fan is apart or the job is underway. No guessing, no surprises on the invoice.
A ceiling fan is weight and motion hanging over your family, so how it is mounted is not the place to cut corners. Every fan we install goes on a braced, fan-rated box anchored to the framing, wired to code. It is the unglamorous part of the job that keeps a fan quiet, safe, and up where it belongs for years.
We are not a general electrician looking to upsell you a panel, a rewire, or a service call you did not ask for. We install, repair, and replace ceiling fans, full stop. That focus means we have seen your fan, your ceiling, and your problem before, and we fix it right without padding the bill.
Ceiling fan work is priced by what the job actually takes, so the honest way to plan is with ranges. Where yours lands depends on your ceiling, your wiring, and the fan itself, and your exact price comes after we see it. The quote is always free.
A straightforward swap where a fan-rated box and good wiring are already in place. A spot that needs a new fan box runs toward the top.
A fan where there was none: new wiring, a braced box, and sometimes drywall access. Long wire runs, tough attic access, and high or vaulted ceilings reach the top of this range.
A capacitor, pull-chain, switch, balancing, or a light kit, priced by the part. Most repairs fall in this range.
What moves the price: your ceiling height and how we reach it, whether a fan-rated box and wiring are already there, the length of any new wire run, the controls you want, an outdoor rating for a patio fan, the weight of the fan, and any drywall that needs patching afterward.
These are planning ranges, not a quote. Your firm price comes after we see the job, and the quote is always free.
Straight answers from our service calls across the valley.
It depends on the job. A straightforward swap where a fan-rated box and good wiring are already in place usually runs about $100 to $300. A new-location install, with new wiring and a braced box, typically runs $300 to $1,000 by the wire run, the ceiling, and the access. Repairs usually fall between $90 and $250 by the part. You always get a firm price before any work starts, and the quote is free.
Yes, and it is one of the most common jobs we do. When there is only a light fixture, or nothing overhead at all, we run the wiring, add a braced fan-rated box, and set up the switch or control, fishing the wire through the ceiling and down the wall. It sometimes takes a few small drywall cuts, and we tell you exactly what is involved before we start.
Yes. A standard light-fixture box is not built to hold the weight and the constant vibration of a spinning fan, and hanging a fan from one is how they eventually pull loose from the ceiling. A fan needs a listed, braced, fan-rated box anchored to the framing. If your spot does not have one, installing the right box is part of the job.
Usually it is a loose blade screw, a warped or dusty blade, blades that are out of balance with each other, or a bent downrod. Sometimes it is the mount itself, a fan hung on a box that was never rated for one. A wobble is worth fixing early, because the shaking wears on the motor and the mount over time. Most wobbles are a quick balance or a remount.
Almost always. A fan stuck on one speed, or that only runs on high or low, is usually a failed capacitor or a worn speed switch. Both are common, inexpensive parts that we carry on the truck, so this is typically a same-visit repair.
It depends on the fan. If it is a good-quality fan and only one part has failed, a repair is usually the smart, cheaper call. If the motor is burned out, the fan is a cheap unit that keeps failing, or it is too small or too loud for the room, a replacement is the better value. We give you both numbers and an honest recommendation so you can decide.
Yes. Covered patios and pool decks are a great place for a fan in the valley heat, but the fan has to be rated for it, damp-rated under a solid cover and wet-rated anywhere weather or sprinklers can reach. We help you pick the right rating for your spot and mount it to stand up to sun, dust, and monsoon wind.
Yes, high and vaulted ceilings are a big part of what we do in Summerlin, Henderson, and the newer communities. We bring the right downrod length to drop the fan to where it moves air, a slope adapter for a pitched ceiling, and the ladders or lift to reach it safely. A tall great room is exactly where a properly installed fan makes the biggest difference.
From the Strip and Downtown out to Summerlin, Henderson, and the master-planned communities across the valley.